Gokarn, Karnataka, India
29 March 2004
Gokarna Tirtha
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Gokarna is a sacred tirtha of triangular shape on the the Arabian
Sea. The triangle of land resembles a cow's ear, hence the name: Go
(cow) karna (ear). |
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On the advice of Narada Muni, Lord Krsna did penance at
Gokarna after the mysterious disappearance of His grandson Aniruddha.
Later it came out that Usa, daughter of Banasura, had spirited
Aniruddha away by mystic power. |
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Walking on a hill above the Gokarna coastline. As Saligram
(the Gandaki River in Nepal) is where Visnu is personally manifest,
and as Puskara is where Brahma is personally manifest, so Gokarna
is where Lord Siva is personally manifest. He is worshiped here
in his Pranalinga form. |
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Another name for Gokarna is Rudra Yoni. Initally, when
he appeared from Brahma's forehead, Rudra remained in the nether
regions of the universe. But at a later stage of creation he
desired to enter the upper regions. Because the great cosmic
Bhu Mandala disk blocked the way above his head, Rudra demanded
that Bhumidevi give him passage. She, in her form as a cow,
advised him to pass through her ear. Thus it is at Gokarna that
Rudra appeared. |
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We are descending the hill to visit Rama Tirtha. Here Sita-Rama-Laksmana
did penance during Their exile from Ayodhya. |
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The Deities of Sita-Rama-Lakmana at Ramatirtha. If one worships these
Deities by chanting Their holy names on Ramanavami day, one is freed from
even the sin of brahmahatya. |
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Gokarna is predominantly a community of
brahmanas. The town is small and very peaceful.
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This is a shrine to the nagas (celestial serpents). In the rainy
season, many snakes appear in Gokarna. Fortunately now is the dry season!
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On this street live the leading priests
of the temples. The most visited temple in Gokarna is that of Sri
Mahabalesvara, Lord Siva in his Pranalinga or Atmalinga form. The
demon Ravana tried to carry this linga away from Gokarna to Lanka
but failed after much ferocious exertion.
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A bamboo forest. Gokarna is an exceptionally forested area.
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Jaya Sri Krsna! This is an ancient Deity of Lord Krsna
established on the exact spot where He did penance at Gokarna.
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The Krsna temple is situated next to Kotitirtha. This is
a sacred bathing place that was created long, long ago by the
beak of Garuda. Both Lord Krsna and Lord Rama bathed here.
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The holy waters of thousands upon thousands of tirthas
combine in this one Kotitirtha. |
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The entrance to the Sri Venkataraman temple.
The Deity within is a manifestation in Gokarna of Sri Venkatesvara of
Tirupati.
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This is not a newborn calf. This is an adult bull!
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He is typical of the mini-size cows and bulls of Gokarna. The brahmanas
here keep these cows like pets in their courtyards. In the morning these
animals go out to wander around the town or explore the surrounding countryside,
without any supervision. In the evening they return to the homes of their
brahmana owners. And they are mostly about the size of this bull--as high
at the shoulder as a large dog! |
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A "pure veg" (no cooking of meat, fish,
or eggs) and "Jain" (no garlic or onions) "Brahmin meals-ready hotel"
(restaurant run by a brahmana family). The Mrs. of the family sits
in her special spot from which she can see everything that's happening
in the place. She is a very nice lady.
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Her husband keeps this ancient Deity of
Lord Brahma in the basement storeroom of the restaurant.
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Evening is falling. This is a baba who has lived in
Gokarna for many years. He greets devotees by showing pranam-mudra and
saying "Ram!" |
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Night in the marketplace around the entrance of the Mahabalesvara
temple. During the winter Gokarna is a magnet for swarms of young Western
hippie-type backpacking tourists. (They used to flock to Goa, but that
place is getting too expensive now.) Thankfully summer is coming and
there are only a few hanging around. |
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